November 17, 2008 - Bilbao, Spain

Yesterday we woke up in a sleepy little cove on the Atlantic ocean in a small village called Deba or Deva, it´s spelled both ways, but pronounced Dava. We stayed at a little Pension and had the best tapas yet at the local taverna right on the beach.

From Deba we traveled along the coast to Amoribieta which is where friends of Jeanie´s are from and named after. In Amoribieta we stopped at a open air market and shopped. There was mostly fresh produce but lots of a cloths on display too. We did buy some artisan cheese and I was sorely tempted to buy some of the Iberian ham. I think I like it even better than the Italian version. After lunch in Amoribieta we set off again.

Next stop, Gernika, the place of the famous battle and the inspiration for the painting by the same name by Picasso. In Gernika we stopped at the (covered) town square and took in a mushroom competition. It´s fall and a little rainy here and there were hundreds of types of mushrooms on display. Mozart was playing over the loud speakers, children were dancing, truffle oil and mushroom pate were being sold, and there was a long queue waiting for fresh cooked mushrooms.

About 2 in the afternoon we arrived in Bilbao. After quickly checking into our hotel we crossed the river on a glass floored walking bridge (Jeanie clinging to me) and walked the short distance to the Guggenheim Museum. I have always wanted to see the Guggenheim in person and I couldn´t beleive I was now standing in front of it. Actually we entered from the back, but exited the front. It is beautiful, and no matter what you think of Geary or the EMP, this structure is breathtaking inside and out. There was a traveling exhibit of The History of Art with so much classical art we wanted to come back a second day. But they are closed on Mondays. Bummer.

We are not due in Madrid until tomorrow afternoon and since we can´t go to the museum again today we decided to take off for Madrid anyway. Again we will travel the back roads and stay off the toll roads. We love stopping in all the little towns along the way. We'll stay somewhere along the way.

I didn´t tell you about france. We drove up to St. Jean de Luz and the minute we crossed the border you could tell you were in a different country. The houses are different from Spain and they are all white with red trim. In the country side anyway. I see why people want to live in the south of France. The town of St Jean de Luz is on the Atlantic and at this time of year most of the touristas have left. Not much was open in town, but we found a wonderful little french restaurant and ate a fabulous meal. A kindly older gentleman diner offered his opinions of our culinary choices. Jeanie had fisherman´s stew and I had the duck and frites. The best duck and french fries I have ever had and the most expensive. Along the route to France we stopped in Irun, Spain at again another open air market and I bought artisan made chocolate and duck and goose pate. Yum.

Okay, that´s a lot for this morning and we haven´t even had breakfast yet, which in Spain is usually toast and coffee. I hope the hotel restaurant has eggs over easy.

Love to all,
Joy

Joy and Jeanie´s Grand Adventura